Confederate rose: a fall-flowering chameleon

Like aspiring Hollywood actors, there are some lesser known fall-blooming garden plants that perform brilliantly in our gardens, but are rarely found in the marketplace. These plants have beauty, talent, and the ability to make passersby stop for a longer look.

One of those plants that should receive top billing is Confederate rose (Hibiscus mutabilis). Although it spends most of the growing season looking rather ordinary with large, fuzzy sycamore-like leaves, it’s not until late September and October when she makes her debut. The first one I saw several autumns ago rose more than 10 feet high and had red, pink, and white peonylike flowers-all on the same plant! I was awestruck.

Like a chameleon, Confederate rose flowers open up white and then change to pink and then to red before they begin to fade. Some cultivars of Confederate rose, such as ‘Plena,’ have double-flowers that change from white to pink.’Flore-Plena’ is a common cultivar that has double pink, camellialike flowers.

Confederate rose prefers full sun to partial shade in a well-drained location. In the Piedmont the woody stems die back to the ground when temperatures drop to 15 degrees F. However, new shoots slowly emerge in the spring.

Although Confederate rose may be hard to find in the nursery trade, you should find one growing somewhere in your community. The folks I know who grow “The Rose” have always been generous about passing along a handful of easy-to-root cuttings. Like self-appointed publicity agents, they’re determined to make Confederate rose famous.

“Barney Berries”: a visual autumn treat

I’m very fond of using fruiting ornamental plants in the landscape. Often, they pack a one-two punch of interest: colorful autumn leaves and gorgeous fruits. Sumacs, hollies, cotoneasters, crabapples, and viburnums are eyCallicarpaamericana_fruite-candy for us and a food source for wildlife.

One of my favorite fruiting plants is the beautyberry. I’m particularly fond of our native species, American beautyberry (Callicarpa americana). During the growing season this plant looks like any other green leafy shrub with long, slender branches. From June through August it produces attractive lavender-pink flowers along its stems. It’s not until late summer and fall when American beautyberry gets noticed. Clusters of golfball-sized iridescent purple berries occur along the length of each branch. Often the shiny purple berries will persist until December, long after it sheds it yellow leaves.

My daughter used to call these shrubs “Barney Berries,” in honor of that famous purple dinosaur on PBS. The fruit clusters are big, boldly colored, and beautiful. Serious gardeners may ask: “What can you grow alongside your beautyberries that will complement their purple fruits?” Since beautyberries can be grown in full sun to part shade, plant them at the edge of woodlands or in beds with ornamental grasses to serve as a foil to that earthy color scheme. Others have successfully combined its purple berries with asters and goldenrods.

If purple is not your color, then consider the white-fruited ‘Lactea’ or ‘Russell Montgomery’ American beautyberries. Their pearly-white berries will go with anything. But if you want to make folks look twice and ask: “What’s that?”, then you have to go with purple.

Beautyberries are rather easy to grow. In the spring cut them back close to the ground. Since flowers and fruits are produced on current season’s growth, drastically cutting them back will give you a terrific display on a multitude of gracefully arching branches. During very dry summers I water it occasionally.
If you’re also interested in growing edible fruits, such as blueberries, blackberries, and raspberries–the ones with antioxidants, fiber, and vitamins—then feel free to shoehorn them among your beautyberries. After all, anything goes with purple.

A fall delight: “Barney Berries”

I’m very fond of using fruiting ornamental plants in the landscape. Often, they pack a one-two punch of interest: colorful autumn leaves and gorgeous fruits. Sumacs, hollies, cotoneasters, crabapples, and viburnums are eye-candy for us and a food source for wildlife.

One of my favorite fruiting plants is the beautyberry. I’m particularly fond of our native species, American beautyberry (Callicarpa americana). During the growing season this plant looks like any other green leafy shrub with long, slender branches. From June through August it produces attractive lavender-pink flowers along its stems. It’s not until late summer and fall when American beautyberry gets noticed. Clusters of golfball-sized iridescent purple berries occur along the length of each branch. Often the shiny purple berries will persist until December, long after it sheds it yellow leaves.

My daughter used to call these shrubs “Barney Berries,” in honor of that famous purple dinosaur on PBS. The fruit clusters are big, boldly colored, and beautiful. Serious gardeners may ask: “What can you grow alongside your beautyberries that will complement their purple fruits?” Since beautyberries can be grown in full sun to part shade, plant them at the edge of woodlands or in beds with ornamental grasses to serve as a foil to that earthy color scheme. Others have successfully combined its purple berries with asters and goldenrods.

If purple is not your color, then consider the white-fruited ‘Lactea’ or ‘Russell Montgomery’ American beautyberries. Their pearly-white berries will go with anything. But if you want to make folks look twice and ask: “What’s that?”, then you have to go with purple.

Callicarpaamericana_fruitCallicarpaamericana_fruitBeautyberries are rather easy to grow. In the spring cut them back close to the ground. Since flowers and fruits are produced on current season’s growth, drastically cutting them back will give you a terrific display on a multitude of gracefully arching branches. During very dry summers I water it occasionally.
If you’re also interested in growing edible fruits, such as blueberries, blackberries, and raspberries–the ones with antioxidants, fiber, and vitamins—then feel free to shoehorn them among your beautyberries. After all, anything goes with purple.

When is the best time to prune spireas?

Spireas are deciduous, multistemmed shrubs that have been cultivated in the South since the mid-1800s.

When you prune a spirea depends on whether the flowers occur on last year’s growth or on current season’s shoots.

Spring-flowering spireas bloom on last year’s wood and should be pruned when their flowers fade. This will encourage new growth that will mature over the summer and fall and bear next year’s flowers.

Spring-blooming spireas include baby’s breath spirea, bridalwreath spirea, double Reeves spirea, and Vanhoutte spirea.

To prune them, first remove any dead or crossing branches. Then, thin out one-fifth to one-third of the oldest branches to the ground. Shorten long, lanky branches by cutting back to a side branch or bud oriented away from the center of the shrub. Finally, tip back a few of the branches to encourage branching from below the cut to create a full-looking display.

Spireas that bloom on current season’s growth should be pruned in late winter before budbreak. They include Billiard spirea, bumald spirea, and Japanese spirea and its cultivars and hybrids.

Thin out the oldest shoots at ground level to reduce overcrowding. Cut them back by two-thirds of their height or close to the ground to encourage the production of many young shoots that will bloom later in the season. To maintain an informal structural framework, stagger your pruning cuts.

During the growing season, removing the spent flower heads will promote continuous flowering, especially in Shibori Japanese spirea and bumald spirea.

spanish moss

spanish moss spartanburg

Spanish moss hanging from a branch on the campus of Spartanburg Technical College in Spartanburg, SC (USDA cold hardiness zone 8A).

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Crepe mrytle in Gainsesville, FL festooned with Spanish moss. Credit: T. Polomski.

In my travels throughout the South I’ve been fascinated by the Spanish moss that drapes the branches of many trees, notably live oaks and crepe myrtles. Spanish moss (Tillandsia usneoides) belongs to a large genus of about 550, mostly epiphytic,  species in the bromeliad family (Bromeliaceae). Spanish moss (USDA zones 8-11) is native from the southern U.S. (southeast Virginia to Florida and west to Texas and Mexico).  This “air plant” lacks roots, relying almost entirely on atmospheric moisture and rainfall for sustenance. The limbs of its host tree (or telephone wire or clothesline) serve only to provide support.

The long, slender grayish-green stems and leaves of Spanish moss can reach 20 feet. They are covered are covered with dense trichomes that act like reservoirs to capture moisture and nutrients.

Three-petaled pale blue or chartreuse flowers are borne singly in the leaf axils in late spring and early summer and are pollinated by moths drawn to the musky fragrance. The small fruit capsules that result, split when ripe to release seeds that are outfitted with silky hairs.  Dispersal is mainly by wind. Reproduction also occurs  by vegetative offsets that are broken off and transported by wind or animals.

Historically, Spanish moss has been harvested and baled for use as livestock feed, garden mulch, mortar reinforcement, packing material, and mattress stuffing. It was also used  as stuffing in the seats of Henry Ford’s Model-T cars.

Visitors seeing live oak trees heavily draped with Spanish moss frequently ask if the plants are harming the tree. While Spanish moss is not a parasite in the way that mistletoe is, it can affect its host in a number of ways. First, there is the shear weight of the moss which can sometimes cause weak limbs to break. A subtler effect has been termed nutrient piracy. By intercepting wind and rain-borne dust before it can reach the ground, Spanish moss may capture nutrients that might otherwise go to feed the host plant. Such a cost is a minor one, however, and not a reason to worry about the Spanish moss that gives the Deep South so much of it’s character.

 

 

Insecticidal soap vs. dishwashing liquid

On the radio last week a caller read the label of an insecticidal soap over the phone, and wondered about the ingredient: “potassium salts of fatty acids?” The caller also wanted to know if dishwashing liquid could be used as a substitute for insecticidal soap.

I explained to the caller that these potassium salts of fatty acids are created by adding  potassium hydroxide to fatty acids obtained either from  animal fat or in plant oils. The resulting “soap salts” are most effective in controlling  soft-bodied pests such as aphids, scale and mealybug crawlers, thrips, whiteflies, and spider mites. Generally, they have little effect on beetles and other hardbodied insects (an exception being cockroaches). The soaps must come into direct contact with the pest to be effective.  The soap penetrates the outer cuticle of the insect’s body and dissolves or disrupts the cellular membranes causing dehydration and death.  Soaps can also block the spiracles or breathing pores in the insect’s body which interferes with respiration. In some cases soaps may also act as an insect growth regulator, affecting the metabolism of cells and metamorphosis.

Certain common dishwashing liquids and laundry detergents when mixed with water have also shown insecticidal and miticidal properties. When applied to an assortment of vegetable crops, Palmolive®, Dawn®, Joy®, Ivory®, and Dove®, for example, have effectively reduced populations of whitefly , aphids, and spider mites. However, dishwashing and laundry detergents are not labeled as insecticides. Although they may be insecticidal, they are chemically different from  the registered insecticidal soaps.  Furthermore they may prove phytotoxic, causing injury by dissolving the waxy cuticle of the plant’s leaf surface. I told that caller that it’s better to save these soaps or the washing of clothes and cleaning of dishes for which they were designed.

Peegee Hydrangea: you’ve come a long way baby!

One of the toughest and most adaptable of all hydrangeas that tolerates full sun, Peegee Hydrangea (Hydrangea paniculata ‘Grandiflora’) is also one of the most coarse-textured shrubs that’s difficult to incorporate into the landscape.  ‘Grandiflora’ is a deciduous large shrub or small tree that grows 15 to 25 ft. high and 10 to 20 ft. wide with a fountain-like Tardiva_hydrangeapeegee1[1]habit. Panicles of creamy-white flowers produced on current season’s growth open in June, July, and August; they age to a bronze-pink and eventually tan-brown. Since flowers occur on current season’s growth, prune as needed in late winter to early spring.

Recently plant breeders embraced this species and created more than 80 cultivars that embody the ruggedness and durability of panicle hydrangea (H. paniculata). These cultivars look nothing like your grandmother’s Pee Gee hydrangea. The come in various shapes, sizes and colors. Several outstanding cultivars that you should include in your landscape include ‘Brussels Lace’, ‘DVPpinky’ Pinky Winky®,‘Floribunda’, ‘Interhydia’ Pink Diamond(tm), ‘Kyushu’, ‘Lammetje’ Little Lamb, ‘Pee Wee’, ‘Tardiva’, ‘Unique’, ‘White Lace’, and ‘Webb’.Tardiva_hydrangeapeegee2[1]